Window Unit Air Conditioner Resources:
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I'd ask a mechanic.
it can't- the compressor takes energy to start up. hence-the kick....open your windows and drive faster...
Tighten the belt.
It is loose.
check and replace the belt.
Sell it! Mine did the same...and more. Unload it now!
You need to have mechanic look at air conditioner. Compressor may be going out.
Quiet down, class, quiet down. Didn't you hear the bell? Today's lesson is on the basics of air conditioniong. Your A/C compressor only works when it's needed. It compresses the refrigerant in your car's A/C system, and it cycles on and off as the refrigerant pressure in the system falls and rises. It has an electromagnetic clutch that is triggered by a pressure switch in the high pressure side of the A/C system. That clutch is not a smooth one like you have connected to the pedal under your foot to get the car moving. It is either engaged or disengaged. The A/C compressor puts drag on the engine when it is operating. So, when the pressure switch tells that compressor it's time to turn on, it doesn't say "you can come on when you feel like it, and when you do, come on gradually". It says "turn on now, and none of this pansy-azz gradual stuff. This driver wants cold air and he wants it NOW". Because the engines in our Neons are small and have very little power, (I have a 98 Neon too) the kick from that compressor is a hard one, and that little motor really feels it. That's the "jerk" you feel. If we had a big V8 under there, the same compressor wouldn't do much to the motor. We can only fix that jerk by buying a car with a bigger motor.
Yeah, what me again said...
Being a 2002 model, that should still be covered under warranty. Kias have a 5 year warranty if I'm not mistaken, so I'd take it to the dealer...that should be a covered system. Otherwise, I don't know how to repair aan evaporator; I always thought that was something that needed to be replaced rather than repaired. I'll defer to the A/C experts on that.
Hope this helped a little.
the evaporator is located in the dash and the blower blows the air across it. Usually a tough job, get a manual to be certain.
I guess you could as long as you make sure the unit is off and you remember to remove the cover before it's turned on again. The covers for the window units are more to help block air from blowing into the house or apartment than anything else. They just help with weather proofing a bit. They make things look a bit nicer, also.
The split units don't need to be covered as protection from the weather. They are built to be exposed. They don't allow wind into the house because the only penetration are the small tubes and those are (or should be) caulked for weather proofing so the cover is un-necessary.
i just bought one last month i gave 45 bucks for it but if you put it on ebay you might get the 175
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Whirlpool ACQ088 Window Air Conditioner
Cooling Area: 350 sq.ft - Width: 19.31 in
$179.00
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I would be reluctant to pay more than $100 for a 10 year old unit of 10,000 BTU. The $100 figure assumes that it has clean and undented coils. Look for hair and dust accumulated behind the air filter. Any of this is a sign that the unit has been abused and could fail anytime.
eewwww!
absolutely not!!!!! it's all the humidity coming out of the house and it is dirty water yuk.
Yes, it is distilled water. It is also best for your steam iron.
Probably not I wouldn't take that chance.
yes! the correct method is to mix: 1 part air conditioner water, with 3 parts water from toilet bowl.
some people forego all that by just getting a glass of freakin water from the sink faucet.
Since people in other countries fry rats and eat roaches, you drinking a/c water isn't very differant....... but if you are needing water that bad i suggest going to a camping store and buying a tablet that purifies the water so that it is drinkable........ i really dont want to see your write up in the obituaries.......... ahahhahaha
Water that drains from air conditioners is just condensation, like water beads on the outside of a glass of ice water, so it is like distilled water; however, if you wanted to drink it you would have to sterilize everything it touches, including the pipes it condenses on.
I think what you are really asking is if there are air condtioner chemicals in it, like freon or ant-freeze. The answer is that it does not contain any bad chemicals.
are you nuts?
Drink it if you want......I'll pass thank you
Not safe! A/C drains grow alot of slime and bacteria, and may contain poisonous chemicals to inhibit slime growth.
Here where I live those people would be lucky to get $100 dollars for an Air Conditioner that old!!
The unit is 11 years old so it will not be as energy efficient as today's models. But if that is not an issue and it's still blowing cold air the price isn't that bad. Here's a link to the lowes website A/C section the 10,000 BTU's are running around 300 dollars. Lower BTU models are cheaper but if you are looking for cooling multi room areas they may not do the job...
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&Ne=6000&category=Window%20Air%20Conditioners&N=0+5001885
As soon as you are not going to use it any more this season.
well i think that around 20-24 degree and yes most people here in usa dont know about celcius hahahahaha
Since it's still moderate temperatures, (68-80ishF) I'd say leave it in as long as you feel comfortable. If you find that you are not using it for 3 or 4 days at a time you can take it out but I've known people to leave it in all year so it is up to you when you feel you don't use it anymore.
take it out now
Cat piss?
Most likely there is mold growing in the air plenum where the evaporator sits. The most likely cause is a partially clogged condensation drain.
The gut who put freon in my car said you can spray a can of Lysol through you rventa, and that will solve the promlem
Your drain hole under the vehicle could be plugged is not letting the water out.
I had this problem in my 2002 Hyundai Sonata. Check the cabin air filter if there is one. What make is your car? Not all cars have cabin air filters. Note: This is different from the air filter under the hood of your car. I found out mine was missing, I bought the car used and they took it out and never replaced it. Now that I have one the smell is going away.
The vent in front of the windshield should be free of leaves. Now let's move under the dash the evaporator gets moist as it cools the car and when you turn off the car and park everything heats up and whatever is in the a/c smells. Mild detergent bleach shot into the vents helps but unless you clean the evaporator out the start up a/c smell will be there. Some times you can pull the blower motor under the dash and spray solution of bakeing soda bleach and detergent thru the evaporator. it will drain out the ac drain and drip on the ground but that might plug the drain so if when your done if the a/c does not drip on the ground you clogged the drain. It is best have a technician remove the Evaportator coil and high pressure wash and put back in.
Have the A/C evaporator pan drain hose checked for debris. Over a period of time this hose becomes blocked and humidity does not drain completely. To clean, one will have to go under the vehicle (have eye protection) at the right side firewall area and look up for the vertical drain hose. Squeeze this hose several times and be prepared for the water that comes out. You may also have to use a coat hanger wire to probe higher up.
There are also fresheners that can be purchased and sprayed thur the outside cowl vent to cover the weird smell. Have the A/C in use when this is applied.
The classic reason for smelly A/C is mold. The classic reason for mold is moisture, warmth, and darkness - all available in abundance. The classic reason for excess moisture is a plugged water drain line. If water is not dripping from under the car when the A/C is running (even just idling in your driveway), then that line is plugged. It can be unplugged easily by blowing compressed air up into it, or poking up into it with a long screwdriver, pipe cleaner, etc.. This is most easily done with the car on a lift, which your local repair garage can handle quite easily.
I dont know..
Microbes form in the moisture. most parts stores carry an air freshener that not only smells pretty but kills the microbes.
before shutting off your car always turn a/c off leave ventson fan on high to dry out the evaporator core and hvac plenum. make sure air intake at cowl is not dirty. and check evaporator drain tube for blockage.
You need to get an oily product to moisturize your hair...or ask your haircare professional ...or search on some of the more popular hair/shampoo web site for ideas! Clairol/Revlon/Fruitis/Paul Mitchell/...try...good luck!!!!
Get some Anti-Frizz serum
hot oil, ok
Paul Mitchell shampoo does tend to dry out hair. If you go to a Solon that does scalp treatments get one. It Will help out alto. It will leave your hair shiny, and silky. They are cheap also. The Solon i work at you can get on for $12.00
I would suggest Cholestrol treatments.... you get get this in most drug stores. Aother great treatment is Mayonaisse. Saturate dry hair with Mayo, leave on for an hour , then wash out. It truly works.
i also had dry hair....3months ago i started using Ouidad products. they have a good line for dry hair ....my hair is curley but it also works well when i flat iron it. the deep conditioner is WONDERFULLLLLLL! the products are litttle pricey but well worth it ......sighed use to be in your place girl.
you need to use a something like a hot oil treatment
Never use a hair product where the shampoo and the conditioner are in the same mix,the same bottle. Shampoo cleans your hair so use a shampoo for dry hair -Aussie is a good brand esp the Moisturizing Shampoo. Shampoo also cleans the hair of Conditioner and other product build-up which Can dull your hair-which doesn't happen if shampoo and conditioner are the same product. First use a CLARIFYING Shampoo -Nexus,Aussie both good products-also Paul Mitchell-white with black writing, then use SEBASTION potion No 9 and leave this in your hair-put about a size of a dime through just shampooed hair-does wonders for dry hair. Also if you have dry hair-do not blow dry unless absolutely necessary-let it dry naturally-I wash hair in the evening and let dry before I go to bed in the Am spritz with some plain distilled ore purified water-water is moisture. The No.9 potion can be bought CVS Drug
use shinier
Yes, AC is possible for Omni but u'll have to put a transparent sheet to block off the luggage compartment but the pickup will slightly reduce since its a small 800cc engine.
Maruti Omni is by far the best product released and hence it is still running in the market since 1985. We had one for 19 years untill we sold it last year and we have done many long trips.
But pls be carefull not to drive too fast since its not a very stable vehicle... as long as u treat it like a van it's cool.
have your thermostat changed .. That should work and it's not too expensive
check the thermostate under high revs water flow is not flowing right and its causing it to heat up
if not the thermostat try the water pump it might be slipping at high RPMs
You may have more than one problem. You could have a leaking intake gasket(which is a common problem with that engine) causing a loss of coolant to the engine. Also you could have a thermastat that is not working properly. Make shure your coolant level is full and there are no air pockets in the cooling system. You may have to take it to a repair shop for both problems. Hope this helps..
A thermostat sticking halfway open can cause this. Its restricting flow at higher rpms, but allows enough flow at lower rpms...
RRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=west+covina+%2Bair+conditioning
Click on the link...
are we talking about a refrigerated unit or central heat and air? the window unit can be installed by anyone that knows how and the other is a totally different ball game
Go to nearer shop.
Marvel Air Conditioning and Heating Inc
(626) 732-4751
P O Box 4730
Covina, CA 91723
Look in your local yellow pages and find a contractor near you. Rember to get at least three estimates and due some research on those companies. Ask them what kind of equipment they want to supply you with because their are all types equipment out there. You cheapest quote may be using cheap equipment! Good brands are Heil, Carrier, Trane, Lennox.
Craigslist will have people looking to do small jobs.
It still sounds like something is sucking a lot of power. Have you turned everything off while on it? I would call customer service if you still have problems with it...
its probably the treadmill. check the voltage on the treadmill and whatever its plugged into. try plugging it into another outlet. or move it to a different part of the house.
If if is the motor losing power, maybe replacing the brushes, but I suspect it is mechanical - belts slipping, in which you could use some best dressing on them.
Turn on everything in the house even your treadmill and go to the breaker box and turn off the breaker that runs your treadmill,everything that goes off will be from that one breaker.
Maybe you can try a diffrent plug that isnt on that breaker.
and NO extension cords.hope this helps.
Its kinda like turning an iron on and watching your lights go dim....alot of amps are pulling on a 15 to 20 amp breakerand a treadmill is like that.
Sounds like a bad ground wire somewheres
That would be easier to answer if it made sense!
How to clean the interior of my 18000 btu window air conditioner without damage?
if you mean how to clean your a/c. un plug it take it out of your window. take out the screws to remove the outer shell. this is very easy . once you have it apart. take it to the car wash and spray the hell out of it. don't get to close to the fins with high pressure. that will bend them stay back at leat 2 feet. let it dry for a spell. then put it back to gether.
I'm with answer #1, what the heck are you trying to say mate.
I assume you want to clean the evaporator coil on a window unit?? Sure that's what ya mean, gotta be, A coil cleaner bought at a hardware store and a shop vac, Remove the filter in the front, spray it good, while unit is NOT on, Let it sit 5 min and then vacuum it off
if you dont want to get hot
probably wouldnt hurt,,, we run ours all but 3 weeks out of the yr in texas
yes it is important to run at least once a month even when not required to keep the appliance and the chemicals running smooth,
if you do not you will find it will cease up and cost you a fortune to repair,,
thanks
Yes, run it even more than just once. A/C, just like other electric appliances, will break down if not used. Plus, it needs to be run so that it'll run properly when the time to use it comes. A car needs to be driven around or it'll break down and operate inefficiently, same with the A/C.
i guess yes. its a machine afterall, needs bit of warm up evry year
Why have it if you're not using it? I would think that if you're not using it then I would leave it alone until I needed it then before I did use it just do a routine check on it and make sure filters and coils are clean, check freon in it.
yes.
run your a/c in the summer and even through the winter (just for a few minutes). the same goes for your heaters in your car...run them for just a few minutes in the summer too.
i do
Auto AC compressors have a shaft seal that can leak. It has been common practice to run the AC from time to time to ensure the seal does not leak.
However most cars made in the last 10 years run the AC when you switch to defrost. If you run your defrost and it get very gold, you AC is running. So long as you use your defroster from time to time, it should be OK.
On your Home AC, they are a completely sealed system - no moving seals that might leak. So you do not need to worry about that. However its probably a good idea to run it a bit just to make sure everything works. If it never runs, something might move into the outside unit and start eating things like wires, insulation, etc.
good advice from paintinj,run it from time to time even if its to get rid of the dust that accumulates on the evaporator/condenser
It won't hurt it not to run, I've seen units that have not been run for many years and they started right up. running it or not is not going to help anything on the unit
You only need to run it when you want to run it.
Some condenser fan and evaporator blower motors with sleeves instead of bearings (very common) need to be ran occasionally to lubricate the sleeve.
Yes that is a very good idea
i have found that a evaporative cooler is not any good in brissy in summer as they put moisture into the air & it is humid enought allready.portable AC it ok in a small room But i find celing fan's to be good most of the time except on the really hot days
I'm i kalgoorlie, WA, and every house has evaporative's on the roof, and they are not very good, dont get one in brisbane, because of humidity, portable or fan will work better than evaporative
If the humidity is above 20% on average, A swamp cooler (Evaporative cooler) will not work or be affective. But on those days that the air is dry, they work great. Never found any of the portable units to be affective. Depending on the area your wanting to cool, Maybe a simple window unit and fan will work for you. GL from Sunny Southern Cal
no it dont at all
Yes, high humidity can freeze a/c coils. There are some units that come with an antifreeze option, so if your doesn't then try turning the unit off for a moment and run it again. There are no internanl problems that i know of that could make this happen, but it has happened to me when the weather is warm and humid.
No - a dirty filter causes the coil to freeze over.
absolutly!!!!!i've actually had this same problem with my ac in my bedroom!!! you have to make sure the
filter is cleaned almost every other day seriously!!
clean the outside where the controls are!!! and the last thing i do is turn it off for at least 4 hours or more so it has a chance to thaw. we used to have a unit outside, my husband used to take a hose and melt the ice that way, it worked pretty well. if that's the kind of unit your talking about
the meltdown will last at least 7 days, then just shut off the unit and hose it down again, it works wonders. tyaonmy@yahoo.com
You are right it does sound like you have another issue, maybe low on refrigerant or an air flow problem. The high humidity itself will NOT cause the coil to freeze up. That being said if the coil is already starting to freeze up and the humidity is high in the house it will definitely contribute to the problem.
I would say it is not a problem with the power of the unit. That is a common misconception. (The bigger the better) As a matter of fact if the unit is over sized it can actually cool the house to fast and not take the humidity out of the living space.
The icing problem probably has to do with one of the issues that you spoke of. It can also be from a restriction in the refrigeration system, like a plugged filter drier or bad expansion valve.
It's rare, if you keep turning the unit up and down it will, you are short on coolant. Check again.
NOPE, Been a a/c man in Dallas Texas for many years, 100 degrees and hunidity levels above 80%, Nasty place to live. but there is no way that high humidty will cause a/c to freeze up. As you stated above. Lack of airflow, caused by a dirty filter, dirty evaporator, or the inside fan not running at all will do it. And of course a lack of freon (name brand).
Extremely low coil temperature casuses it to freeze in almost any humidity condition.
Too low refrigerant temperature is almost always caused by either low system charge or low air flow over the coils.
Low system charge must be handled by a technician.
Low Air flow is probably handled by a technician since I'm sure you checked the obvious to see that the filter is clean.
Other reasons for low air can be the coils are dirty themselves and do not allow the air to add heat to them as it is blown over them.
ALMOST always low charge or low air flow.... Bank on it.
and no- humidity is not the culperate AT ALL.
Yes high humidity can exacerbate the ice since the ice is moisture condensing on a cold surface and freezing. The more moisture the thicker the ice.
If the unit is working properly and there is proper air flow across both the condenser and evaporater coils there should be no ice regardless of the humidity.
The only problem that you would have if the unit was not powerful enough would be insufficient cooling and not frosting up.
high humidity will not cause a coil to freeze . low freon , evaporator fan not running ,clogged filter will cause the problem change the filter ,check to see if evaporator fan is running if it is have the freon charge checked.
No, but the love of mechanical things and how they work is what keeps us going.
Machinists have had hard times lately because of cheap foreign imports. The career is probably fine for your Dad, but as a young man I would think twice before trying it.
Love of mechanical things can lead to good career though. Try your Department of Labor and find out about their apprenticeship programs. You get paid to work, you take classes and then you get certified in your State for a specific trade. You could go for being a plumber, a mechanic, an electrician.... plus a lot more.
Or maybe you want to go to college and be an engineer or an architect.
Good luck!
it is very low on freeon or freeze 12 you can buy it at a parts house
I dunno, moron.
My air conditioner at home was giving off a nasty smell this morning. I was wondering if the smell was coming from outside. Good question, I will watch and see what answers you get.
might need a new air filter.
to cut the smell
Now I think I have heard it all. I thought stealing automobile headlights was odd but this is worse. The best thing you can do is anything that will make it more work to get to. A thief will go after an easier target if yours looks too formidable or will take too much time to rip off. you might have to do something like embed heavy iron pylons into concrete anchors set around the unit, and then bolt heavy steel angle irons around the unit. I can't believe people would steal these things just for the copper. How pathetic.
Failing that, try land mines.
There are many places who make a metal frame that fits around the a/c. It is fastened securely to the home, and would make it near to impossible for anyone to take it.
Opt for a water cooled indoor type unit, if you are in the purchasing mode for capital equipment. If not try a roof top cond. unit as that would be more than a high jump to get to.
That's tough.. One thing may help put a sign near saying aluminum coils. aluminum is not very expensive and not worth the trouble too steal.
ITS NORMAL WHEN ITS HOT
It is working properly. Warm air holds more moisture than cold. When warm air is cooled, water condenses on the condenser. The hose drains the water away.
I'm pretty sure it's normal and that stuff if a coolant... but I'm deff not a professional.
its the way they work this is normall.
have you just noticed that? The water that your a/c gets out of the air got to go some were.
In many installations this is the emergency overflow. It drains the emergency pan that is below the airhandler where the cooling coil is.
Normally the moisture that is condensed is drain through the primary drain to a sump, the sewer system or other safe place. If this line gets plugged, the condensate overflows to the emergency pan and then to the outside of the house.
You need to check the drains and emergency pan. Many times the primary drain can get plugged with dirt, algae or slime. It may need to be cleaned out with a wire, some bleach or maybe a little compressed air (at very very low pressure). I usually start with the bleach.
For those who are interested: An AC unit's first task is to cool the air entering the cooling coils. Dehumidification is a secondary result. Its controls operate on temperature an not on humidity. You use a dehumidifier if your primary task is to dehumidify.
I agree with Mrcoolit. He should have more knowledge before he spouts off.
The water you see coming out of that hose is just that. The coils will have a thin layer of ice build up on them when the unit runs a long time and runs harder because of hotter weather. The unit will shut off and the icy layer will melt and run out the drain that is attatched to the tray that the coils sit in. It is made this way to keep the moisture from getting in the electrical parts of the unit. One thing to check is the air filter on the unit. It probably needs changing or cleaning if it is one that can be cleaned.
It is most interesting the answers that one might see on yahoo. I think there should be some level of knowledge of a topic before you would be allowed to answer, rather than talking out your a#$. If it were the real world you would be liable for you answer.
As the warm air passes over the indoor coil of your air conditioner, the air becomes cooler and as it does it will give up moisture. This is collected in a catch basin and passed out to a drain.
The first job of a a/c system is to lower the humidity. Lowering the temperature is second on the list.
It is as simple as the mid day, hot air, cooling in the evening and producing rain clouds.
condensation..... its a fact of life
My central air unit leaks when the temperature outside the house is close to the temperature inside the house. Typically at around 72 degrees, which is what we keep the house temperature at. I'm not sure if the unit leaks outside, it probably does, but it definitely leaks inside the house from the 2 hoses which go into the basement floor (to a sump I guess).
This is an old house, but I've only lived here for a few months, so I don't know all the Idiosyncrasies of the AC unit. It did freeze over once and stopped generating cool air. I would really appreciate your insight on this as it differs slightly than the original question.
OMG at the answers again on this topic, You a/c has 2 drain lines. The main is stopped up, The water coming out the side of your house is an EMERGENCY drain. This second line stops the pan from overflowing and running into the house. Clean main line out. Yahoo messenger if u need more info
Wow!!! Some of the answers. I know you get points for answering but please try to answer questions you know something about. Okay, now back to the question. . . This is normal in most cases (If your drain is ran to the outside and not to the sewer), however, if your air handler is in the attic this could be a warning to you that the drain pan is overflowing into a secondary overflow pan. This means check the situation out and fix it NOW! You need to prevent water damage to the ceiling. When in doubt,call a professional.