Whirpool Air Conditioner Resources:

to make sure that the passengers are comfortable

Are you kidding !!!

I grew up in the 70's and 80's with no AC on buses and trains. All those sweaty people rubbing up against you...

YUK !!!

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Getting farted on would be mixed blessing - little bit of breeze and little bit of stink. YES it was that bad withOUT AC !!



Good Luck...

A lot of people in a confined space will generate a lot of heat. If the air temperature is hot then inside a bus the air will get hotter and humid giving the impression that it is even hotter than the actual temperature would indicate. The passengers then sweat and feel uncomfortable and the whole process of travelling by bus becomes a nightmare.

Because after the air conditioning has been functioning for 20 minutes, the amount of dust in the air is reduced by 30 percent compared with normal ventilation, thus the people on board will breathe better.......

because we are so accustomed to ac that we are unable to tolerate heat like earlier generations did.

To keep the passengers comfortable in hot weather.

Go to kbb.com and enter all of your cars information. That should give you a good starting point.

http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/PricingReport.aspx?YearId=1994&Mileage=140000&VehicleClass=UsedCar&ManufacturerId=35&ModelId=236&PriceType=Private+Party&VehicleId=9587&SelectionHistory=9587%7c26200%7c73129%7c0%7c0%7c&Condition=Fair&QuizConditions=

You owe me for looking this up for you. Im sorry but its not going to be much. It was 12000 dollars. I put it as fair condition, and with the mileage. You could get a 1000 easy for it. You could even get 1500 for trade in if thats what you needed to do to get a new vehicle.

sell it for the current blue book value this is what its worth wholesale.. the ac and windows can be repaired cheap. ok.

Air conditioners make it hotter outside as they make it cooler inside. The heat dumped outside can be 3 times as much as the amount removed from inside.
Then the power they used may be drawn from burning fossil fuels which again heats the environment.

The CO2 released when that fossil fuel is burned also traps heat via the greenhouse effect. This last is the largest problem.

* Air conditioners consume a large amount of electricity, which is usually powered by burning coal that releases greenhouse gases, causes acid rain, and has been mined in a way that isn't good for the environment.

* The refrigerant chemicals inside of air conditioners can destroy the ozone layer when released.

because they use a lot of electricity. also air conditioners made before the mid 1990s may contain freon 12 as a refrigerant gas. this is a cfc that destroys the ozone layer in the upper atmosphere. for this reason there is world wide ban on its manufacture & use in air conditioners & refrigerators.

air conditioners release florocarbons into the atmosphere altering the o zone by pulling down the o zone layer

Get a bike.

OK here's some tips to save REAL gas

(1) drive slow - no speeding on hwy
(2) accelerate slowly
(3) don't brake unnecessarily
(4) use cruise control - whenever possible

On American morning TV show (NBC) they reported good driving habits can improve MPG by up to 38%. That's more than all other tips combined (tune up, window up, AC off, etc.)

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OK so here's real life experience: My car is a 94 Civic. It is basically stock except it has short air intake and header pipes. I drove from Boston to NYC (210.5 miles) and only used 5.112 gallons. Actually I did it on 3 + 1/4 hours so that was about 65 mph (speeding little bit). That still comes out to 41 MPG ! WOW !!!

How? These old civic are lighter than new civic (only 2300 lbs). The care breaths easier because of after market parts. I drove in the middle of the night so I had no traffic - no braking. I mostly left it on cruise control - to eliminate my bad driving habits.


Good Luck...

P.S. I also used a GPS to get the shortest route. Save 40 miles off regular old route.

All about planning ahead and trying to cut down on your journeys!

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=miles+per+gallon+gauge&searchbtn.x=27&searchbtn.y=15

There is not much you can really do for modifications. It is a minefield that way too. Every cheap huckster and con artist pops up every time there is a fuel crunch and tries to sell you everything from running your engine on water to 5,000 mile per gallon racing stripes.

Your best modifications are driver behaviour.
No long idling, no drag racer starts, all of that stuff.

The best fuel saving is not driving when you can avoid it.

Driving UNDER the speed limit can get you killed. Stop that.

If you REALLY want to reduce fuel consumption you have all the power and you don't need to buy anything.

1. Drive less.

Plan your trips so that you have to make fewer of them. If you have errands to run plan to do them all together in an area where everything you need to do is close at hand. Even if that spot is a little farther away you still save fuel use over a bunch of individual shorter trips.

You can also walk or ride a bike to things that are nearby.

2. Check your tire inflation pressures WEEKLY and make sure they are inflated to the vehicle manufacturers specifications.

3. Light acceleration. Standing on the gas to get up to speed doesn't save any meaningful amount of time but sucks a lot of fuel.

Windows down.
My car gets 27mpg average unless I use the air. Then it gets 24mpg.

Mythbusters did an episode on this very issue. Check it out.

The aerodynamics of todays cars is so messed up with the windows open that they are more fuel efficient with the windows closed and the AC on than with it off and the windows down. This is from studies by several manufacturers.

it doesnt make a difference, last week on my news station they tested this, and it didnt make a difference either way. its a myth, they also think windows up and ac on saves a little but not much

Using the AC is more fuel efficient on the highway. Open
windows cause drag, reducing your gas mileage.

You waste more gas while running the air conditioner-windows down and freash air is better!
If you cant stand the heat, use your air conditioner for a few min and then switch! :)

Trane

model you need depends on the size of your home

Trane is a good one, but I would also check out Bryant. They have lighter size units, with all comparable equipment as you mentioned, and have a higher satisfaction rating. And, price -wise, they are comparable to Lenox. Check it out before you purchase

Trane and American Standard are pretty much the same thing, Trane is manufactured by AS. My preference is for the low dollar units such as Payne (mfd by Carrier) or Goodman (mfd by Rheem). I've installed many different brands, and have found that they're all pretty much the same. A system that works well, and gives long years of service usually does so because it's been properly sized, and professionally installed. I think you should worry more about the installer than the brand.
Hope this helps.

Only the diverter. Mold is a sign that moisture is coming from the duct. You may want to get this checked out.

exercise that arm more, or get someone to help you lift things

Support bandage and anti - inflammatories from the chemist will help, but also you should be aware that health and safety legislation prohibits you from lifting that sort of weight and so your employer must provide the necessary lifting gear for you.

Motorised trolleys and vacuum lifts, etc.

Hello there,
What bothers me is that you might have some problem in the neck causing pain in the arm, pressure on a nerve, for example. I would have a word with your doctor, especially if you are also getting any numbness or tingling in the arm. You should also ask at work for some gadgets to help you lift these things as they are very heavy. Good luck.

I would have said that your company should supply the proper training to lift heavy weights , but then noticed you are self employed !!!
You probably need your GP to refer to to a physiotherapist whop can treat your pains and also offer advice on how you should lift heavy weights with maximum safety

It seems to be a fair deal. I just installed a 3.5 ton heat pump/air conditioner in florida and it was $4k and change.

Make sure your contractor is reputable, and do not pay him up front. Sometimes they will ask for 1/2 the bid, and that's ok.

Sign a contract, and put in a completion date with a penalty of $xxx dollars per day that he goes over the date it was to be installed. This will force him to work in a timely manner.

I didn't do this, and he dragged his feet for a month.

10 years on the sealed system not the electrical parts like contactor, fan, and capacitor. I think it is a bit high for a small apartment sized unit. I used to run an HVAC supply house. A unit that size should be under a thousand installed. These guys are just plain crooks these days. If you have over 2 bedrooms by the way that unit will not cut it.

It is a little high. But, you will never find a 13 SEER,( which is the seasonal energy efficiency rating of the unit. They don't make them lower than 13 seer), 2.5 ton a/c unit for less than $1000 installed. If this a new installation and permits are included. Price is about right but still a little high. Always shop around. Carrier, Comfortmaker, Arcoaire and Heil are good brands. There are a few others out there. There also 15-17 SEER units out there also. These will cost less to operate but will cost more upfront. Also is it a two speed condenser? This will also raise price of equipment. Best thing to do is call 3 different companies and compare pricing and equipment. Good luck.

you better take the deal but be cautious sounds almost too cheap

If you are mechanically inclined, turn off the power to the air conditioner. Remove the motor, and lubricate the bearings.

If this is beyond your skill, call in an HVAC tech to service and repair your unit.

um, oiling a old motor that has not been oiled before can ruin it. i would check the start capacitor for the fan motor. if the cap is bad, it's not drawing enough amps to start. that's also a dang good way to burn up a motor. TURN IT OFF until you get it serviced! also if it does eventuelly run at speed, feel the side of motor and see if it's hot. the bearings could be shot. GL with it.

locate the start cap for the motor. inspect the top for damage. typically this will be a bulge in the canister. REMEMBER, if you decide to mess with the capacitor, it holds a charge! so even with the power off it will shock the crap out of you. so you may want to call someone. if you want to do it yourself, you can use an insulated screwdriver to discharge the cap by laying it across the terminals. take it to a hvac place and let them check it. (mark your wires). if its shot, buy a new one, (theyre cheap), and replace it.

well, do what you want, but if you don't know the history of that motor and you oil it, you very well may ruin it. it's your motor though. lol.

Yes, It likely needs oil.

A large number of those motors had oil ports. There are plugs you pull to oil the bearings.

But if it sits vertically, you need to remove the motor to oil it well.

But could be a bad motor.

You should probably go to a shop and get it inspected. It could be either that its just low on refrigerant or it could need a new compressor. Depending on where you live you may/may not have to do a leak test first. In Ontario where I live, by law automotive repair shops have to do a leak test before they fix the A/C on a car for enviornmental reasons.

you need freon you can go to walmart and by 2 cans of R12 and put it in yourself or have a friend do it but the best is let a service ctr do it because you might have a leak somewhere also the system might have to be vacuumed out before you can put in the freon

You can't buy the R12 Anymore cause of environmental concerns. You need to get a conversion kit to convert your system to R134A. It comes with oil for the compressor and some come with the Freon. If you don't know much about the system it is best to have a shop do it. You may have a leak somewhere and they would be able to find it and repair it.

an 87 probably still uses freon and you have to go to a certified mechanic to have that refilled and it usually runs around $100 if it is 134 A you can do that yourself just look on the compressor it will tell you what it uses, or you can have a mechanic refill that also for about the same price.

your ac is low on free-on, have it recharged. if the free-on is too low, the compressor cant kick on.

Not sure where you are located but you could try Sanyo. It's reasonably priced and good value for money.

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http://www.folica.com/Tigi_Catwalk_Fa_d4384.html
amazing for oily hair!

Find and fix the leak and then recharge the R-12 or R134a.

Also, make sure the belts are in good condition and tight. If the belt slips then the compressor gets less power and makes less cold air.

Definitely make sure it is leak free and fully charged with freon. Also make sure that the Recirculation or Max AC as some label it is working properly. In this mode the air within the car is recirculated through the AC condenser and results in the coldest output. If the controls are not operating correctly and allowing outside air to leak in the resulting output of air will not be as cold.

you need to have the refrigerant installed by a shop, or learn how to vacuum the system, how much ester oil to put in, and when enough is enough with the freon. I worked on a/c's for awhile and they make it easy now, but if you want it cold, got to have the right tools, vacuum pump, guages, a fan or a light water sprayer to cool the evaporator core when it's hot and idling and putting the freon in

What about it? I live in Syracuse what do you want to know about it?

Well when your car starts running hot the first thing you do is stop right away!!! i just rebuilt a 67 impala for a guy and the dumbass didnt break the motor in like i told him to and it started overheating, he called me i told him to pull over imediatly but no he drove the next 20 miles and walah motor went kaput. so now your truck is sol

Yes, very quiet and powerful. Check the box, I didn't get my remote (who needs it anyway, lazy ass I guess).

open your windows but cover them with a heavy blanket or something so it stays dark and UV rays don't enter the room. but air still can

solar curtains, they block out most all of the light and heat from the sun :)

Try a portable air conditioner. Dark curtains on the front window will help keep some of the heat out too.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Navigation?storeId=10051&N=526378+90401&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

Open your back window in the early morning hours and put the fans in your other windows facing outwards so they blow the air out of your place. This way the cool air from the back will work it's way elsewhere and the warmer air will be pulled out. Once the place has cooled as much as it can get, then remove the fans from all of your windows. That way when it gets warmer outside during the day then you won't be letting it in through your windows.

Another thing you could do is buy a portable air conditioner, then only stick the ventilation hose from it in the window when you are going to be using it, and remove it when you aren't.

If you are going to cover your windows to darken the place, then use a thick, white material. White reflects light, so it will also reflect the heat from it. Dark absorbs light and the material would heat up during the day if you used it.

EDIT: Wrap the hose of the portable AC up tight in some insulation, that's what I do with mine.

put exhaust fans in your windows and draw the hot air out.

Set up a convection current: hot air rises.

1) On the coolest part of the house or the coolest times of day, open up the lowest windows possible in the house.
2) Open crack at top of uppermost windows on the hottest side. The Hot air escaping from the top will suck air in at the coldest point, forcing cool air to enter at the bottom. (creates negative pressure which gets filled from the bottom)
-If you use fans, do not let air in at the hot side of house. If anything, blow outwards at top of hottest part, and IN at lowest coolest side.

Part 2- Block as much light as possible from that bay window. (And other hot windows) I have a curtain rod with curtain running across front of mine. Do not openthat bay window, it will let the hot air in that will run stright through the house.

Try to open any vents that might be in the attic.

It could be related if whatever punctured your radiator also punctured your condensor as they are often right next to one another. Otherwise coolant has nothing to do with your A/C.

Well, it probably means that your car is old. Both your radiator AND your A/C system probably have rusted out and started leaking as a result of being old.

But without knowing the model and year of your car, there is no way to know for sure if the two problems are related. Usually the radiator water is used for HEATING your car, but not for cooling it. Normally the A/C system is separate.

you have 2 separate problems, you need to have your radiator fixed first.