Toshiba Air Conditioners Resources:

57. A, active solar heating system

You should be able to answer some of these questions, or at very least be able to eliminate some of the answers. If not, and if you don't have a text to help you with some of these issues, I suggest you are in a class that is too advanced for you.

most rv a/c units are 220v ac 20amp that is why they wont work unless you are plugged in but in all my years of hooking up units most do not go over 30 amps, the heat is generally propane

We sort of need a bit more information, however I can make a couple of educated guesses. You are correct that Volts * Amps = Watts. However I'm not sure the 13500 Watt Air Conditioner is correct. Perhaps you mean 13500 BTU (about a ton of air conditioning)? The actual current draw is probably a lot less and it probably doesn't run off of 12 volts. You would need 00 cable (about 3/4 inch diameter) to carry 1125 amps!

So, probably, the air conditioner is 13,500 BTU. I could also assume that it runs off of 120 VAC, not 12 VDC and probably pulls somewhere around 20 amps @ 120 VAC. All of this information should be on the name plate of the air conditioner.

into the room. Heat always go from hot to cold.

form outside to inside(from the room which has no air conditioner to the room whic has the air conditioner)

The air conditioner moves heat from the inside to the outside. So, the heat naturally flows back through the walls, outside to in.

You have a heat pump that is not reversing to cooling mode to thaw out. You need to use emergency heat and call your HVAC guy. Your therm. has a switch setting for the emergency heat.

I agree the E.M setting should thaw out your unit, something is not right with your unit, could be low on freon.

I've had heat pumps and to encourage the thawing out I would pour warm water on the outside unit. Even if it's not a heat pump this will melt away the ice harmlessly.

go buy a chillton book and it will tell u how to fix anything on ur car step by step

If the air blows, but no heat, the problem is likely to be the heater core.

Heat is generated in the engine as it runs. The heat is taken away by the coolant that runs through the engine and back to the radiator. Some of this coolant is sent through a very small radiator (heater core) to provide heat to the passenger compartment.

You will not have heat if: The coolant is not making it to the heater core and could be caused by a number of things.. Blockage, a valve is stuck shut. leakage.

Sometimes the core itself will develop a leak and must be replaced. I have replaced a few heater cores in my experience, and some are tougher than others. If you have tools and time, you could replace yourself.

You will be best to go to a local auto parts store and get a repair manual (Chiltons) for your year of sevile. Chiltons provides step by step procedures on how to replace heater cores and almost every other major component on your vehicle.



I don't know about your specific model and you didn't provide the year of manufacture. So I can't be specific to your car.

The sexy part is the girlfriend working on the car.

This might just be the blend door. Pretty common with the GM cars. The door that changes where the air is coming from is probably stuck in the cold position. Can be from a broken linkage or cable, or actuator. Going to depend on what year this is. Of course, it could just be stuck.

E-mail with vehicle details if you need instructions.

Air conditioning and heating are 2 seperate systems. You can have heat with no air, and vice versa. Firstly, check for vacuum leaks that would cause your heat door flaps not to work. They operate by engine vacuum. Check your coolant level. If it is good, after the engine is fully warm, check your heater hoses, the ones that go through the firewall to the heater core. Are they both hot, both cold, or 50/50?? You should change the themostat and flush the coolant periodically. If you do so, use Mercedes Benz (yellow) coolant. It will prevent, for the most-part, future cooling problems by virtue of it's advanced chemical formula. Good Luck!!

You could try a Brita filter.

you need to let the water sit for a day or 2 ans you'll notice bubbles, which is fine by the way, make sure u don't poor the tap water in the minute it comes out of the fosit. Believe me i forgot to let the water sit for a day or 2 and my fishes died in like 5 minutes ='[

Add extra activated charcoal to your filter box which will eliminate the sulfur smell. You can also add an inexpensive filter to your tap which will remove the sulfur/iron particulates.

Your biggest problem isn't th e water. Your pacu needs to be in bare minimum 75 gallon tank and you will need to upgrade that to a tank of at least 250 gallons eventually. The pacu will suffer severe stunting in a 20 gallon tank.

Guinea pigs are odd. They can catch colds from people and have very poor immune systems. They can't handle excessively hot or cold temps. They should ONLY be given their guinea pig food and vitamin C supplements. An occasional carrot is fine. Next time, I reccomend getting a book about your pet.

I'm sorry but the person above doesn't have a clue what shes talking about!! pigs CANNOT catch colds.

yes they don't like extreme temps. hot or cold.

but you cannot just feed them dry food without giving them a variety of fresh food. (cucumber,carrots,celery,spring greens, apples,oranges, cabbage leaves and small amounts of spinach and broccoli as they contain high levels of calcium which can cause kidney and bladder stones... which can be fatal)

ahem* back to the question. Erm... pigs are strange they don't show signs of being ill until they are extremely ill. maybe he was ill when u got him. as u done everything right as of feeding him. except the lettuce too much can upset their tummies.

it could have been that they also need rabbit / guinea pig mix plus a whole lot more different fruit and veg

you're not meant to feed guinea pigs lettuce, cabbage, or peas. and sweet food like carrots upset their stomachs.
they could get diahrrea because of that and very sick.
but they can eat other vegies, like spinach. and other green vegetables. and you cannot keep pellets for more than a month, otherwise that causes deficiencies in vitamin c in the pellets, not much vitamin c can cause scurvy.

it could have been a heat stroke . . .

just try 2 maintain your natural hair or u can go 2 the hairdresser n c what can b done

if ur hair is curly, then i think u should leave it curly, there are many ways to make gurly ringlets that are defined. i have curly hair and the way i manage my hair is i wash it with shamooo everyother day and i use conditioner every day... i usually dont wash all the conditioning away because curly hair tends to dry and the conditionier keeps it moist. i also use a curl defining moose that i got for 2 bucks in the grocery store. dont tuch your hair that much because that gives you frezzzy curls.. but i understand. i want straight hair everyonce in a while. my mom taught me thins and it really works. straightners usually dry your hair and kills it badly what i do is the following. i take a shower with regular shapoo and conditioner, then i come out of the shower and brush it really good. then, i wrap my hair around, using bobby pins. i usually split my hair from one ear across to the other one.. then i brushh al the hair in one side and clip it with bobby pis. then continue rapping it arround.. then i wait till its somewhat dry, and i wrap it the other way, once its completly try, i take all the bobby pins out, and its wanderfully straight... i get compliments all the time because it looks soo natural. the first time you do it, its not gonna turn out wonderful but once u have the hang of it, trust me, it is just amaizing.

Use Optimum Oil Therapy Conditioner.
Rescues:It helps prevent split ends and break points.
Rejuvenates:gives lifeless hair strength,body and shine(also good even if you don't have lifeless hair)
Replenishes essential oils and nurishes each hair strand.
It's awesome :)
*It also contains natural oils such as:coconut,olive,avacado, jojoba

FIRST do not chemically straighten it. YOu will regret it. Unless you are african American and have naturally KINKY hair and a hot comb or flat iron does not straighten it out then use the chemical. Now if you are biracial and wash your hair everyday that will ruin your hair. one thing that will help your hair terrifically is John Frieda's hair product line. Also Bed Head hair product line. Look for serums that you use before and after you straighten it. Conditioners will soften your hair one great conditioner is by John Mitchell. Also try to leave in the conditioner for about 5 mins. Also when you straighten it afterwards make sure you moisturize it like leave in conditioner. Good luck!!

It's about energy. (Don't tell my mechanical engineer son that I pretend to know about energy, but here goes ...) The AC uses a compressor. (It's got a clutch that engages the compressor when you turn the dash controls to "AC.") The compressor needs energy to compress the freon and to blow cold air into the car. The energy has to come from somewhere, so it comes from the motor. Sure, it's just a little bit, but every little bit of energy comes from the gasoline. Use more energy, burn more gasoline. Burn more gasoline, increase your fuel consumption.

It puts more strain on the motor to turn the compressor

It is driven by a belt attached to the crankshaft. When the AC is off, the pulley on the AC compressor spins freely, and the load that belt and pulley put on the engine is minimal.

When you turn the AC on, the compressor engages, and all of a sudden your engine is not just turning the pulley, but it's turning the guts of that compressor which resist the force of the engine (via the belt) meaning the engine has to work harder to turn at the same speed.

Well that's kinda an old wise tell to a point. It does consume more fuel because you have turned on the A/C pump witch takes horsepower to run. But on the other hand if your windows are down now the inside of your car puts drag on the vehicle. You have just lost the aero dynamics of your auto. So in town slow MPH yes you lose freeway no you don't. But if it's hot use it you will never know the difference at the end. But you well feel better when you get there. I hope this helps.

The air conditioning system is run by a compressor that requires quite a bit of power to operate. The compressor pumps the coolant through the coils and evaporator and this pumping is what requires the power input. That power input comes from the engine. In the future, you may see car air conditioners run by an electrical power system quasi-independent from the engine itself --to save fuel(although the engine's alternator will keep the batteries charged). This is how hybrid cars operate and one reason they're so much more fuel efficient than regular cars.

Bagua:
http://messagenote.com/?p=37

You should stand in the center of your room or house to make the direction riht.

About bedroom decor:
http://messagenote.com/?p=5

Good luck!

Near the beds, it is hard to sleep when you are over-heated and uncomfy. If the common area is too hard use a window fan in the doorway to blow the cool air onto them.
No, I don't think the ceiling fan will be that effective in distributing equal temps if the AC unit is only on one side.

Multiply the length by the width to get square footage so you can estimate correct size A/C unit. Definately use ceiling fan. Pull cool air up push hot air down.

1800W/210V =8.571A assuming 210 is single phase (as plugged into a wall socket)
However 210 is not a standard voltage in the states. Normally 220 to 240 single phase or 208 3 phase

8.57A

divide the watts by the voltage.

to answer your question lets start with "current flowing" first current doesn't flow....current is defined as the flow of electrons measured in amps. an amp is 6.28 billion billion electrons passing any given point in 1 second. yes i said billion billion. that's a bunch of them little boogers. but any way volts/watts=amps

Most likely cause of frizzy hair now, not when you were a child is: Puberty. Your body went through a major change and it also changed your hair

I went through several hair changes:
1. Pre puberty = great, soft whispy light brown hair
2. Puberty = thick, somewhat frizzy, straight hair, but a cow lick on right side of my bangs
2. 4 surgeries in 2 years = changes in color(never dyed it) from light brown to dark dark brown, back to light and now a medium brown hair

yah i have the same problem... frizzy hair that puffs and looks like crap with no products... what u need is a smoothing shampoo, and conditioner for frizzy hair and textured... u should always massage it in and leave it for 2 mins atleast. after washin it off and dryin ur hair use a straightner... the only reason hair straightners have a bad rep is cause women use HIGH HEAT and hold it for a long time in the same place... just set it at a medium low temp. and just do a couple of seconds on where u wanna str8en.. and u should also use hair paste... no gel, nothin that makes ur hair look wet... use paste with matte finish, ull find em in salons.

GOOD LUCK, hit me up if u need more info

Typically they are wired to thier own breakers or fuses. Go into the box and remove fuses or turn off breakers and cut the wires.

go down to the fuse box or circuit breaker box what ever you have find the breaker and shut it off. pull the cover to the breaker box off. remove the wires from the circuit breaker put the cover back on the breaker box. then go upstairs to the outlet remove the plate, remove the outlet and put on a wire nut on each wire removed from the outlet, then put on a blank plate. if you have fuses it might be more difficult to figure which wires go where because each fuse panel is different. some of the fuse panels were made on site. so telling how to do it wouldn't be easy. you could just put wire nuts on the wires and put on a blank plate and be done with it. or if you are going to remove the box altogether then you have to remove it from the breaker or fuse box and might be worth a call to the electrician.

you can shut off the break to it, then go upstairs, make sure its not live with a volt meter, or a 220vac device. if the line is dead remove the cover plate and disconnect the wires from the outlet, cap all three wires individually with three wire nuts. stick them back in the box and put a blank cover plate over it. you can leave the breaker off. you COULD pull the breaker and disconnect the wires downstairs but be very very carefull. if your not familiar with handling electricity it could very well kill you. you better off just leaving the wires in place with the breaker off.

Why don't we just make this easy...Securely twist a wirenut on the wires that are there...Put a blank cover over the box...Then you are done...

Freon but it's no longer used.

I believe this was Freon R512. But the nameplate should have it on it.

Cinder block provides pretty good insulation. However a lot depends also on the type of roof and roof insulation, if any, doors, and windows. The 18 ft ceiling helps. If exhaust ventilation is available on the roof or high in the wall, it can be helpful also. Exhaust fans are usually set to turn on when the temperature reaches about 85 F.

Beyond that, you may just have to wait and see how hot it gets before you decide to install air conditioning equipment.

18 gage (18awg) wire (3 wires in a cord) is good for 14 amps.
a 1500 watt element will draw 12.5 amps. @120v

so you should be ok.. but your explanation sounds fishy.. a water heater that has 10 ga wires should be equipt with much larger heating elements than that. Thats why it has 10 ga wire.
make damn sure you know that your load is only 1500 watts.. if its higher your gonna start to melt stuff. will likely blow a fuse after a while if you screw it up. a fire is possible but unlikey. Just be aware of the risk associated with not being sure.

This is generally a bad idea. You would be a lot safer with a junction box wired into the source of the outlet's power, but if you aren't going to do that what you are proposing would work. I would strongly advise you monitor the cord during the two hours of use and check frequently for signs of trouble such as the cord getting hot to the touch, or trouble at the plug. Also you definately do not want to do this for very long. Also, be sure to wire it correctly, you do not want to reverse the polarity on it. Insulate well with wire connectors, insulation tape and then a bit of standard black electrical tape. Of course you already know to prevent the wires from touching eachother.

No you can not do that according to the electrical code!

The 18 Gage wire will not handle the load when the heater calls for the heating element to run. That is why they have the higher 10 Gage wire on the unit

First, you need three wires coming into the unit. One for the feed (power), one for the neutral and one for ground. The feed is us ally a black wire, the neutral is a white wire and the ground is a green one. (If this was a 240 volt unit, you would need three wires and a ground)

With a 1500 watt/120volt element the circuit would draw 12.5 amps at max. The 18 Gage wire can only handle less than 10 amps. Thus you would need to install a 12 Gage wire extent ion to the unit. You can buy them at a hardware store already made up or you can make one up yourself. This extension MUST have a three prong plug that will fit into a 20 amp outlet. This is heavier than the ordinary outlet most houses have installed. Thus you will need to install a new outlet as well. Since the wire supplying the outlet must also be 12 Gage, and most house wiring to outlets is 14 Gage, a new circuit is also need to be run (unless you have 12 Gage already installed). Finally, does your circuit have a ground wire included? that is important for safety reasons.

Don't try to short cut this installation. A fire in the house is not worth the money you would save.

Do NOT use the 18 gauge wire. As some of the other answers said, this is NOT safe. 18 gauge wire cannot support the current that 10 gauge can. The water heater can draw as much as 40 amps on 10 gauge conductors. This is what the NEC rates as the maximum amount of current on wires that large, and these ratings havn't changed much over the years.

It sounds kinda funny that 10 gauge wires are used to power a 1500W/120V element. Unless there are two elements that would be simultaneously powered, I'm surprised that you havn't burned out the element. 1500W for heating 19 gallons kinda sounds weak. I'd expect a 4500W element or two elements.

Anyway, do not use the 18 gauge plug. BIG trouble. If you must use a plug, use one that can support up to 40 amps and wire the female end of that plug ALSO with 10 gauge wires. ALSO, it's wise that the circuit breaker that powers that circuit matches the ampacity rating of the wires (40 A).

Next, are you sure that your water heater is a 120V device? Are one of the wires white? Unless what John H said previously, a 240V system does NOT necessarily take four wires (including ground) becaue a neutral is only needed for the 120V step. A 240V device requires exactly 3 wires (2 hots and a ground) and the neutral is not used. This is very important and you need to check the plate on the heater (or if there are no white wires). Giving 240V when it demands only 120V will burn out your element and possibly the electronics of the heater. But wiring for 120V when it demands 240V will cause it to suck twice as much current, again possibly burning out wiring and such.

If you do have 120V, then you need a three prong (hot, neutral, ground) that can support up to 40A. If you really do have a 240V device, switch the element to one that can support 240V and you'll need a plug for 40A 240V. Three prong, 2 hots and one ground. Also, if there's no ground wire, there ought to be a grounding screw to wire for wiring that hard-wired ground directly from the panel.

Good luck

# 18 is way to small.
This appliance will max out the circuit.
The manufacture requires #10 wire.
The receptacle is probably rated at 15 amps.(marginal)
The wire to the receptacle is probably #14 or #12.(not big enough)
You will need a separate circuit for this to be done properly and safe.

no use #10 is it aluminum? if so oxigard if you want a fire use #18

The air conditioning in a RV is 120v ac not 12v dc. I'm running a 15,000BTU air conditioner, plus a microwave at times and a 42in flat screen TV w/TIVO and home entertainment system all on a 30amp service with no problem. I can add a second 13,500BTU air conditioner by wiring it up for 50amp service.

Divide 1125 by 110 volts and you get 10 amps

Your RV A/C does not run off 12 volts. If it did your battery would be dead in seconds if the engine were not running.