Industrial Air Conditioners Resources:

I believe it is a 5000 BTu unit that you can get at Walmart for around $89.

I have seen a 5500 BTU unit as the smallest. But we live in coastal Texas, so anything much smaller would only cool the car. 5500 is sufficient for a 12x12 room here.

Yes it is called a window fan

Around 5K BTU, but depending on where you live, and unless you are only trying to cool a 2x4 closet you really shouldn't need any smaller. They typically have adjustable thermostats.

These are normally FREON GAS with GRADE 12 OR 22. The type of gas is selected based on air conditioner compressor type( whether centrifugal or reciprocating ) and capacity.

From Wikipedia:
"The decoding system for CFC-01234a is:

0 = Number of double bonds (omitted if zero)
1 = Carbon atoms -1 (omitted if zero)
2 = Hydrogen atoms +1
3 = Fluorine atoms
4 = Replaced by Bromine ("B" prefix added)
a = Letter added to identify isomers, the "normal" isomer in any number has the smallest mass difference on each carbon, and a, b, or c are added as the masses diverge from normal."

This is very confusing, but it means that Freon-12 (CCl2F2) has 1 carbon, 0 hydrogen, and 2 freon atoms

Freon -22 has 1 carbon, 1 hydrogen, and 2 freons, (CHClF2)

These numbers have little or nothing to do with the cooling effect, which is a function of the equation-of-state curve for each.

Freon-12 has a Latent heat of vaporization (lv) of 166.95 kJ.kg-1
Freon-22 has a Latent heat of vaporization (lv) of 233.95 kJ.kg-1

you probably meant 11 and 22. If I understand it correctly, you might be talking about refrigerants R11 and R22. In the US depends on state laws, only liscenced technician can purchase those refrigerants. However R11 refrigerants should not be used or leaked into the air sinced it hurts the ozone layer. If you have existing equipments/appliance that uses R11 be careful of disposing them. In terms of cooling effect, not much difference, safety is more emphasized. R22 is soon to be out phased also. R134A is the new common refrigerants, can be bought locally by anyone since it does not hurt the ozone. However, you cannot convert from one refrigerant to another.

it shod Dow the trick

You need 8000 bts and air flow is good but will not erase BTUs

That's a good size room. Two ways to approach this for a solution.

A small unit will give you savings upon purchase, but then it will work harder to maintain the comfort range and maybe never get there too. Bingo - HIGH Electric Bill.

Go with a 1 ton (12,000BTU), it will work quick and fast to your comfort zone and "LESS" effort to maintain for the long haul. Results: LOWER Electrical Bill & Comfort zone ABSOLUTE.

I work for a plumbing heating and Air conditioning company, I think the smell maybe a condensate line. Is your ac working or is it barely cooling? How is your condensor working? It maybe that you have water in your lines from last year.

There could be mold and/or dust build up on your condensor or in the filter system. You may need duct cleaning. You could try spraying something like Lysol inside the condensor and see if that helps.

I'm guessing it was OK last year? The freon in the system also has oil in it to lubricate the compressor. It may be a small leak.

Cig in ashtray smell or grease smell. Get it looked at(estimate at least 2) or get filter with frangrance bags that make the whole house smell like whatever you want it to.

It's temporary.or your fan motor is roasting.

You just need to convert units properly (really has nothing to do with chemistry)

1 atm = 760 mmHg
1 torr = 1 mmHg (they're the same thing!)
1 atm = 14.7 psi (given)

So, just multiply:

4.8 atm =

a. 3648 mmHg
b. 3648 torr
c. 70.54 psi

This is simply a conversion of units problem. I would start with part d first.

Converting atm to psi like this

4.8 atm x (14.7 psi/1 atm) = 70.56 psi.

Notice that the atm units cancel. This is one way to know if you are doing the conversion correctly.

To find conversion from psi to the other units, look in your book or use this website I found (http://www.hoke.com/resources/convert_psi.html)

By the way, torr is exactly the same as mm Hg, i. e. 1 torr = 1 mm Hg.

1 atm = 760 mm Hg
4.8 atm = 760 * 4.8 = 3648 mm Hg

torr is another way of saying mm Hg
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torr
4.8 atm = 3648 torr

1 Pa (pascal) = 101325 Atm
4.8 atm = 101325/4.8 Pascal = 21109.375 pascal

1 atm = 14.696 psi
4.8 atm = 14.69600 * 4.8 = 70.5408 psi

You should try and do your chemistry with understanding rather that taking your chances with the internet.

a) 1 atm is equivalent to about 760 mm Hg. So by proportion,
4.8 atm = 4.8 * 760= 3648 mm Hg.

b) torr is the same as mm Hg so you get the same answer.

c) 1 atm is equivalent to 101325 Pa. So by proportion,
4.8 atm = 4.8 * 101325=486360 Pa.

You have given the equivalent for the last in your question so I guess you can work that.
The conversion table is here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure

only if you have a freon leak only maintenace is cleaning the filter

It's a closed system. The only way it needs refrigerant added is if there's a leak.
All air conditioners need routine maintenance. The coils will be more efficient if they are professionally cleaned at least once per year. If it has a fan motor that requires oil (some don't require oil) this should also be done annually.

Adding freon or coolant to a sealed system is for the most part a big myth--it is not used up, the only way your unit would need coolant is if it had a leak in the system. If that is the case, just adding more coolant will only be a temporary fix, the leak needs to be found and soldered shut.

As long as your unit is working fine and putting out cold air, it should be fine. It is possible to put too much coolant in a system, which can damage it.

I had an old fredrich A/C that must have been made in the 1940s or so--probably one of the earliest window A/Cs. It drank electricity like water, but because the system was sealed intact, it put out frigid air in the 1980's just fine. Good example that freon is not "used up". My central unit I have used over 18 years, it has never needed any either.

It is not usually due to heavy usage. The refrigerant system is a closed system if you need rerigerant it is usually due to non use and seals can dry out causing seepage. But it should not require regular recharging. If that's the case you have a leak.

the only time an air conditioner would need refrigerant (freon is a brand name) is if there is a leak. refrigerant is not a fossil fuel and does not get used up.

old man winter

http://www.greatachievements.org/?id=3854

I dunno, but maybe Wikipedia does. It's a great site, so just search for it in the search block on their site.

www.wikipedia.com

That is neither a maintenance nor a repair.

There should be a fuse somewhere.

There are a few reasons it won't start. The first to check is if the breaker has been thrown. That's an easy fix. If not, you might want to check out this troubleshooting guide:

Good luck

Need more information...what wouldnt start...is it a window unit or central air...does nothing come on or does inside unit come on and outside unit does not...I can help but need more information.

Maybe check the thermostat, see if that is blown. Check for obstructions in the fan casing of the air conditioner unit. Silly thing to ask but, is it plugged in? I believe it needs it's own source of power.

there are many answers to your question but i would get a tech out unless you know how to jump out a low pressure control it sounds like it has a leak

put it on a crate, chair, or a bench.

Sounds like you want it all.. ..
Portable air conditioners are cheaper than putting a window in.
You could always cut a hole.
Just don't put a regular AC unit inside. The hot air blows out the back, so you will get nowhere.
Fans are cheaper yet.

Knock out some bricks and put it through the wall.

Cut an opening in a wall for the AC, put it up pretty high so it heats the warmest air...

They make portable floor-standing AC units with an exhaust hose that you can snake out a door.

If you live in a state where the humidity isn't that high the a swamp cooler will work just fine,you can get one at home depot it is called shop cool. or get a stand up a/c unit or get a window unit and you will have to cut into the wall and install it that way.

Cut a hole in the out side of wall same size as AC unit cut the studs on inside wall big enough to use 2X4s to make a frame for the AC unit.

Have you checked the filter that is located in the furnace. If its clogged the a/c will not operate properly.
Actually 68 degrees is a little to cool for residential a/c. The unit will run better and more efficient if you set it 75-78 degrees. With the windows shut, drapes or blinds closed the huse will remain comfortable. If you have several people living in the house, drop the temp down to 73 or so.
You might need a HVAC company to service the unit. It might be low on freon, have a leak, the A coil might need cleaning etc.

its sounds like your indoor fan is not working or the filter is clogger there may be a switch for it check that first dont run the unit untill you get the fan working for it will freeze the evaporator

as for the arrow on the filter, it should point into the furnace, since the airflow is from the return duct into the furnace. if you have a new filter and still no airflow into house SHUT UNIT OFF. either the blower motor has failed or its controling relay, or the evaporator is dirty and needs cleaned out. if you run the system this way you will have ice build up on the larger of the 2 freon lines and it will damage the compressor if left running. the other thing is possibly the compressor is not running, and moving the refrigerant in the system. the warmer air coming out of the grills is closer to your body temp and harder to feel. i hate to say it, but your best bet is to call a service company and have it checked out.

sounds to me either the indoor fan motor is not working or the outdoor unit compressor is either not working or is low on freon best bet call hvac company

I recomment york is the best

Well, considering the fact that air conditioners CAUSE global warming, I think not.

No we can't. That would be a ridiculous waste of money, time, and energy, plus it wouldn't help anything, and it just might mess up the earth a little more....silly.

And what are you planning to use for energy to keep this thing running?

no

no you can't. air conditioners work by extracting heat from one side of them and moving it to the other side, making heat in the process since it is doing work. So say you have an air conditioner on your window sill, with the window closed, the air conditioner basically moves the heat from your house to outside through a series of pipes and coolants and all of that. That is why when you stand on the other side of an air conditioner they are blowing warm air at you. now if you removed this barrier you would be doing nothing to the temperature since there is no barrier to separate the hot air that you removed from the cold area you are trying to produce. in fact you would be increasing the temperature, because as you tried to separate the cold from the hot you are creating more heat since the air conditioner is on (it does what is called work in physics). this is why keeping the door open on your refrigerator on a hot day actually makes the room hotter once all the temperatures have mixed with one another.

where would we find the energy to power it? if we use the regular genarator then we would be using oil to pollute the atmoshere more

Sure... and maybe we can use Freon in it too! While we're at it lets use Huge freezers to put Glaciers back together! Genius...

Still won't solve the problem, what about the electric energy to run it. It's a no win no win situation

That will not stop Global Warming only we humans can stop it

For the sake of discussion, let's say we could. To run any size air conditioner, you need a motor. Motors generate heat in order to run. That's OK for a home air conditioner, because it blows the heat outside of the house. But where are you going to blow off the heat of the size of a motor to do what you are suggesting? You see what I'm saying? You will be generating heat in order to cool the atmosphere...very likely one negating the other. And again, that assuming it can be done in the first place.

Yes we can - of sorts.

The point Andy makes is a very good one - you can't simply 'get rid' of heat and all that an air conditioner, refridgerator or similar device does is to move heat from one place to another, plus it generates it's own heat in the process.

What we can do is to implement something like an air conditioner - not so much to cool the air but to remove the carbon dioxide from the air that causes it to warm in the first place. This process can be done chemically so requires no energy input, a chemical (sodium hydroxide) reacts with carbon dioxide and sequesteres it from the air - the resulting liquid can, ironically, be used in the oil industry.

These devices can be placed anywhere and each one has the capability of removing 90,000 tons of carnon dioxide a year - about the same that 4,500 American citizens produce.

------------

PS - Error in original answer stated hydrogen sulphide instead of sodium hydroxide, apologies if caused confusion.

ask Bill Gates, he probably already allocated some pocket cash for r&d on the big a/c topic
LOL

KELLY,ALEXANDRA THE D'OLANDO'S AND VICTOR P ALL THANK YOU FOR YOU KINDNESS AND PRAYERS FOR KELLY'S RETURN TO GOOD HEALTH.....THANK YOU!...THANK YOU!.......AND WOOF,WOOF (that's KELLY)!

The conservative solution to global warming is to lighten regulation of corporations/polluting industries and to rely on science to cure the problem. My issue with this is that these types of solutions often do as much harm (as in side effects of chemical or other solutions) as they do good. Conservation, recycling, and the use of technology to explore alternative energy sources are the way out....not half-baked hi-tech solutions.

We could all turn on our air conditioners and open the windows, I'm not for sure if this would help but Ive always thought about it as a kid.

Trevor is quite wrong.
in essence what he's promoting is a perpetual motion machine.

<>

so, we burn oil, capture the CO2 for free, and then burn it again. one would think if it were possible, then your utility wouldn't be buying oil or coal.

I've never heard of the reaction, but i'll not deny it.
however H2S is surely not something you want to burn.
utilities spend millions removing sulfides from their smoke stacks already, and the only sulfur they get is a byproduct.
if they were to burn it directly, their costs would be billions.

chemical reactions are not "energy free". it takes energy to produce H2S, and part of that energy is released when/if it reacts with CO2.

as i said, i'm not aware of the reaction, but if true, it would use energy stored when it was created.

<< Decomposing animal manure gives off a variety of gases including hydrogen sulphide, carbon dioxide and methane. Of all these gases, hydrogen sulphide or more commonly called manure gas, is the most dangerous. Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) has been responsible for many animal deaths as well as occasional human deaths.>>

What a great idea!! And everyone on the planet, regardless of income, can help pay the electric bill for it.

contact another shop for second opinion

Get a second and third opinion. It may be as he says, but it could be something as simple as a blown fuse.

If the compressor failed, then the system will need to be completely flushed, the dryer replaced, the orifice tube or expansion valve replaced, the compressor replaced, and the correct amount of refrigerant oil and freon added. There is no simple fix, and junkyard parts will do you little good. Not sure about 1400 bucks, sounds mighty high to change a few parts.
But then if the compressor is in a hard place to access, the labor goes way high. I would get at least one more opinion/estimate before spending that kind of money. Just stick with reputable shops, the cheapest price doesnt mean the job will get done right.

what type of car?
go to a coupel of repairers
woman tend to get riped and also males if you dont know
whats going on.

Good answer Bart, at least there is someone else on this side besides me and a few others that actually know something about cars. Dodgeman would have told the asker to go to auto zone and buy a kit for 40 dollars and get some ac stop leak and throw a can of freon in it. You are also correct with getting the ac kit, which includes the compressor, reciever/dryer, orfice tube or expansion valve, pag oil, and a flush kit. The 1400 dollars is in the ball park, usually most ac kits and conversion kits are between a grand and fifteen hundred at my shop. I would tell the shop that you did some price shopping and found a shop that will do the same service for 1100 or 1200 and most likely they will just price match it to get your business. Good Luck

master tech and bart are right in line here and straight to the point, both obviously know there way around cars and they both seem very intelligent

Panasonic has come out with some very nice air conditioner's, they are energy efficient, and very quiet.

go to walmart...not that i shop there often, i know what they have is good quality for the price...friends have window units from there, they work well. and i believe the cost is under a hundred, many sizes

I just bought one at Wal-Mart this week for $99. It was the smallest one I've found anywhere. It runs on 120 and doesn't use much power -- perfect for a small room. I'm not certain about the 15 inches high, but it's the shortest I've seen.

Fingerhut

The window units are pretty much all the same. That is they use the same compressors and internal components and add a "brand name" to the plastic outside.

Go to Walmart and buy an AC. They have the best pricing. Those units are Guaranteed for 10 years so keep your receipt and if they fail, they fix free. So dont pay much attention to any particular brand at all just look for the features you want and thats about it.

I've used GE and Whirlpool, and the GE was definitely quieter, although the Whirlpool wasn't that noisy. Frigidaire and Kenmore are supposed to good too.

Here's a link to consumersearch.com
I'ts about 11 months old, but AC's are pretty much the same as they were last summer.

http://www.consumersearch.com/www/house_and_home/air-conditioner-reviews/review.html

We have a GE and a Samsung and they are both fairly quiet.

Newer name brands seem quiter that the older models we had before - A Kenmore and a Chrysler(?). I think the Chrysler was very old!

most new ones have a variable speed fan and they cost under 100 bucks for a one room model, and they cost less to run.

Ask him to elaborate on how the damage is caused. Most window units extend far enough out of the window to prevent the condensate from running down the walls outside. If the water is pooling outside the building, you may want to find a way to drain it away further.

GE air conditioner division was bought by American Standard (Trane) several years ago. Chances are if you have a GE air conditioner its a few years old.

Every manufacturer of HVAC equipment is pretty similar in operation and quality.

The thing to look for now is what type of warranty they offer, and what the efficiency of the equipment is.

My personal favorite is Carrier- but thats just my opinion.

Well I can only tell you Mom and Dad had a York put in ,in 1974. I still live in the house and it's worked fine until just this year. It hasn't stopped, just getting weird. It heats only when it's hot outside! Weird.Think it's getting a little old? It's only 33 years old! In all truths, it's been real good to this house.Bye

I think Onida is best of my knowledge

This is really a problem that you will have to call an a company ti cime out and look out. Sounds like the blower isn't working.

Have you reset your thermostat to the "cool" side? Thermostat should be set around 78 degrees or so and the fan on auto.
If you have done all that then call a HVAC company for a service call.

Sorry about the missing A/C air. It could be something simple like plugged filters or debris caught in the intake air pipe outside. A/C units on the outside tend to inhale dirt or debris and collect around any opening.
Spartawo...

The compressor unit outside and the fan that moves air around inside are usually two different systems. If the compressor is working, check your breakers to make sure the electrical circuit to the fan portion (usually in the HVAC unit inside the house) hasn't tripped. A lot of the newer circuit breakers don't go all the way to the "off" position, but will stop at a "tripped" position halfway. Look at the others to get an idea what is normal.

If the breaker has tripped, turn off the AC, reset the circuit breaker, and then turn the AC back on. If it trips again you need to call someone, for something (short, excessive load, etc) is happening.

If the breaker isn't tripped and the fan inside doesn't run, you probably need a repairman also to check the switches/fan.

All I can think of. Good luck...

Too difficult to read your question without punctuation.

I do A/C for 20 years,,If the outside unit is running and no air is coming out of the ducts,,The blower is not working,,,Make sure your t-stat is working,,see if it will work when the heater is on,,If it works correctly when heat is running then your t-stat is fine..Next check that no breaker has been switched off,or tripped,in the breaker panel that controls the house electric,if all the necessary breakers are on and it still doesn't work,then something is broken inside the blower,maybe the motor,its the only part that controls the fan,which blows air.Maybe a low voltage t-stat wire was broken somewhere in a wall during construction,or maybe your drain lines are clogged and the safety pan is filled with water,which will shut the blower so your house doesn't get water damage,,lots of things could be wrong,,but most times it the blower motor,or a broken t-stat,,good luck...

If the blower is working in the heat mode. It could be a bad fan relay at the furnace. Try setting the thermostat fan setting in ON mode and see if the fan comes on. If not replace the fan relay.

well two things to check fist check the filters if clogged replace second check youe evaporator coil inside see if that ha debris on it if it does clean it third make sure your inside fan is working if your t stat has a fan setting put it on that then feel vent, it could be a number of other things but check those first

You may have a freon leak. That ice is refrigerant. I presume the air handler is in the closet and the unit itself is in another location. One of my tenants had this, and I had to replace the entire system. Don't let it run it can cause more damage. An a/c repair man can use his leak detector to determine where it is coming from.

A freon leak or the condenser motor isn't shutting off when the temperature reaches the desired level. If the A/C runs all the time then it's probably the condenser motor and or thermostat.

I suspect from that description the freon is bad. You need to possibly get part or all of that replaced now. Either that or it may be cheaper to get a new unit instead, after parts and labor fees unless you have a unit under warranty still to cut the cost.

That happened to me last summer when it was 105 outside. Call the repair man. Its really simple you either have a Freon leak or are completely out of Freon. It shouldnt be too expensive to fix.

You need to turn the unit off and let the ice melt. You can do it faster by turning on just the fan.
Call your local air conditioning service people, now, to get scheduled for the next day.
Prepare to pay for the trip out, plus parts, labor and freon.
Check your furnace filter, if it is extremly dirty, that could be the cause of the ice. The AC system needs to breath to work and a dirty filter will chock it out.
The service techs can NOT work on a AC that is iced up.
Good luck and stay cool!

It sounds like the transfer valves have stopped working. If the unit is not too old they can be replaced, but if older it may be time for a new heat pump.

The A/C is frozen up, what we tell our customers is to turn the unit off, let it thaw out and get a company to put some freon in. Your freon is low, that is a very typical problem. When they come out, they may want to do a leak test, so it will stop leaking.

File a case of estafa or swindling against the fake electrician. Under the applicable provisions of the Penal Laws, he committed the crime by presenting an expired license in order to get money from you but never repaired any of the supposed work.

First of all you shouldn't have called an electrician, you should have called a heating and airconditioning man!!

Sorry you got ripped. Nobody likes to get ripped off.

In California, the Contractors State License Board has jurisdiction over unlicensed contractors.

This guy has committed numerous violations. In particular: CA contractors may not ask for a deposit over 10% or $1000, whichever is LESS.

Cal. Bus. & Prof. Code section 7027.3:
?Any person, licensed or unlicensed, who willfully and intentionally uses, with intent to defraud, a contractor's license number that does not correspond to the number on a currently valid contractor's license held by that person, is punishable by a fine ? or by imprisonment in state prison ? or by both that fine and imprisonment."

First, contact him to let him know you are you know your rights as a homeowner, and are serious about resolving this problem. Tell him you want a full refund or you will open up a formal complaint with the CSLB. Then take your money and hire someone you KNOW is licensed (and who works on HVAC). If you are not satisfied, contact the CSLB and make a complaint. That's what they are there for.

I would take it to auto zone, they do this for free now. Also you can browse the fuel and air filter aisles as they might be on sale, good luck i hope this helps.

with a large crow bar and hammer

I just wait till they fall out.

If your talking about the vents you can move from side to side or up and down, just squeeze them on the sides where they pivot and they should pop out. Good Luck and GOD Bless

Depends on the car. Some will pop out with a small screwdriver. Some are screwed in from the inside. Buy the new vent, assuming it has fallen apart and is why you're changing it, and see how it is attached. If it has no screw holes on the sides, it likely just pops in, thus the old one can be removed the same way.

i own a shop and your talking about the small ones inside i think,you can take a small screw driver and pry them out start at the bottom,they usually will pop right out,gm and ford and Chrysler all come out the same way ,you just have to be careful and take your time with it,they will all come out,if there real old there's a good possibility they may break,but don't fear they can be bought new for around 5 bucks a piece,good luck hope this helps.

I own a 3 wheeled push lawn mower, a half a set of skates and a set of 1965 encyclopedias and why the hell do you want to remove your vents?